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VACATION IN VIRGIN GORDA

(Note: Clicking on any image in this travelogue will bring up a full screen version of the image.)

Sunday, January 5: Gorda Peak

Sunday morning after breakfast, Jenny took the car, and went to church. I busied myself catching up on email, (and correcting my typos), doing some Folk Project business, and practicing guitar and concertina for a streaming concert I was scheduled to give two days after I arrived back home. When Jenny got back, she reported a "Battery" icon had lit up on the dashboard of the car during her drive. That concerned me, because that had happened to me once many years ago, when my car's alternator crapped out, leaving me stranded miles from home when the battery charge dropped too low to fire the spark plugs. I did not want that to happen to us here in a foreign land with a car rented from an outfit whose phone number went to voicemail. (See paragraph on Haphazard Business Establishments on the "Virgin Gorda Peculiarities" page of this Blog Entry.) So I figured we'd better get the car back to Mahogany Rentals. I tried calling them again, and hallelujah! This time they answered the phone. They said "Come on down, and we'll check it out.

Not trusting Google Maps to get me there, I got explicit directions, including road names, and landmarks where the roads didn't have names. (See paragraph on Driving on the "Virgin Gorda Peculiarities" page .) We got in the car, and found the place, recognizing it not by any signage, but by a dirt lot packed with cars parked nose to tail, and door to door. I got out, and went to the office. A fellow came out to take a look, and asked if would move the car, as it was blocking the entrance to the lot. When I tried to start it, sure enough the battery was too low to crank the starter, so we pushed it to a more convenient spot. He opened the hood, and there, lying on top of the engine, was the shredded remains of the fan belt that used to turn the alternator. Of course, they did not have a spare belt on hand, so they gave us another car. As it turned out, it was to our benefit. They had no more low-ball rentals left on the lot, and we got a new Toyota with air conditioning, which the old one didn't have. (See Photo #34 below.)

Gorda Peak


Route to Gorda Peak National Park


Views from the Observation Tower


34. Replacement rental car


35. Savannah Bay


36. Better roads


37. Better roads


38. Observation tower
Yep. We're hikin' all the way up there.


39. Trailhead


40. Trailhead fence


41. Footpath

 


42. Footpath

 


43. Footpath


44. View from Observation Tower
See map.


45. View from Observation Tower
See map.


47. View from Observation Tower
See map.


46. View from Observation Tower
See map.

In the afternoon, we decided to take a trip to Gorda Peak National Park. This was the highest point on the Island, and they had built an observation tower at the peak. We took to the road through Spanish Town, and headed to the northern half of the island, which is quite mountainous, and more sparsely populated. The road leads through a narrow neck of land, with Savannah Bay on the left (Photo #35),

As soon as the road left town, its condition improved markedly. (Photos #36 and 37) The pavement was much smoother, and devoid of potholes and speed bumps. We traversed the neck and started a steep climb up the mountain. There were a number of spots where one could pull off and get out and admire the view. We missed the entrance to the Park, and used one of those pull-offs to turn around and go back. We saw the sign for the park, and pulled into the entrance, only to encounter a fence blocking our way (Photos # 39 and 40). There was room for us, and perhaps one more car in the turn-off. We got out and walked past the fence to find a small clearing that was probably a parking lot at some time. Some National Park!

The tourist guidebooks had informed us that there was a footpath up to the peak, where there was an observation tower (Photo #38). We looked at each other. "Shall we?" "OK, I'm game."

The trail was quite steep, and very rugged, with rocks and muddy spots a-plenty. (Photos # 41 - 43) The fenced-off parking lot meant there would few if any other hikers on the trail, and as it turned out, we encountered no one else. Yet the trail still showed some signs of primitive maintenance. Some of the muddier patches had a few 2 x 6 boards laid down to cover them, although they were so haphazaredly laid that they were apt to shift, and dump your feet in the mud anyway. I had not brought any serious hiking shoes. My day-to-day footwear was a pair of elastic water-shoes, quite comfy, but not very rugged. I had also brought with me a pair of leather loafers, which was what I was wearing that day. A little more supportive, but less than ideal for the conditions. I hadn't gone too far, when I started worrying if I was up to this trek. I am, after all, pushing 80. But, I girded my loins, and pressed on.

After about 45 minutes, I was really huffing and puffing, and sweating. I could not remember the last time I had exerted myself that strenuously, and continuously for such a long a period of time. I did stop occasionally to rest, and drank water. Jenny seemed to handle it better than I. She's 10 years younger than me. I looked at my watch, and it was 3:45. I did not want to be on this trail when it got dark. I said, "OK, if we don't see signs of a summit in 15 minutes, let's decide if we should turn back." Just before 4;00, the path leveled out some, and the sky seemed a little brighter above the treetops. The trail declined slightly, but disappeared around a bend. Jenny said, "You rest here for a while. I'll go scout ahead." I was glad for the break, and sat a while with my back against a tree. She was back in about 10 minutes with an optimistic prognosis, so I got up, and we pressed on.

Sometime after 4:00, we finally reached the observation tower. It was a structure of aluminum girders, maybe 40 feet tall with stairways up to the top. I trudged up to the top, wondering at the effort it must have taken to construct such a structure in such an inaccessible location. It must have been transported up, either assembled or in pieces, by helicopter. The sun was getting low, so I did not want to tarry to enjoy the view. I snapped the four photos 44 through 47, and we headed back in a hurry.

They say it's more work to go downhill in those conditions than uphill. Don't believe it. We were really truckin' along, all the while being very careful to watch our footing. I have a regimen of running a mile every other morning. (Well, running is perhaps an exaggeration. These days it's usually somewhere around twelve minutes, plus or minus, and I hate every single minute of it.) But it stood me in good stead, and was able to maintain a brisk pace all the way to the bottom. And Jenny was right there with me. It was still light when I collapsed into the driver's seat of the car.

Too weary to prepare dinner, we made another trip to the Island Pot. I forget what we ordered. I think it was some kind of fish. And back home and to an early bed. Undressing, I discovered that I survived the ordeal better than my shoes. (Photo #48)


48. Shoes

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