VACATION IN VIRGIN GORDA
(Note: Clicking on any image in this travelogue will bring up a full screen version of the image.)
Saturday, January 4: Guavaberry Spring Bay and The Baths
Sometimes I feel like I'm the last tourist on earth that actually carries a camera. Yes, I have an iPhone, and yes, the camera built into it is of extremely high resolution, and yes, it's more convenient to just take the phone out of my pocket and snap a picture. But I really like an SLR camera with a view-finder, especially when taking photos outdoors where the sun wipes out the image in the phone screen. And even though 90% of my photos are taken on the "auto" setting, I do like having some of the special settings available to me when I want to take a closeup, or a rapid sequence of shots to capture something moving quickly. Call me old-fashioned. I can live with that.
Palm Cottage
Guavaberry Spring Bay (Identified henceforth by "GSB") provided daily housekeeping services, even though we opted for every other day. They also keep a rather well-stocked commissary in the office with basic, and some non-basic food supplies. Eggs, milk, bread, condiments, canned goods, wine and liquor (of which we did not partake), some local fish and meat, etc. Honor system: You write down what you took on a list, and they put it on your final bill. A little pricey, but worth it for the convenience. (Vacation dollars.) But we also supplemented what we bought there with some purchases in town. Jenny had heard about the LSL bakery in town that made some excellent bread, but when she went there to buy some, she found out they no longer made bread, so we were "stuck" with store-bought.
GSB has several different levels of accommodations to offer. Palm Cottage is one of their least expensive. It's a simple one-room octagonal bungalow with bathroom and kitchen facilities. Photo #12 shows the exterior. It's nestled in and amongst the foliage and boulders. Well equipped with propane stove, fridge, freezer, and a very complete set of kitchen implements. from photo #13, you can see the extensive fenestration (windows), which performs the function of air conditioning quite handily. I love the construction of the ceiling (Photo #14). The deck (Photos #15 and 16) goes almost completely around the building, allowing us to have our meals outdoors either in sun or shade any time of the day. I am culinarily challenged, and have lived my entire adult life on frozen dinners and deli sandwiches, and am none the worse for it. I do, however put together a decent breakfast. So our arrangement was that when we were not eating out, I would prepare breakfast, and Jenny would take care of lunch and dinner. And whoever didn't cook did the dishes.
We walked down to the beach after breakfast. Photo #17 depicts one of the many boulders on the premises, which Jenny christened "The Whale" for obvious reasons, that we passed on our way there. The beach itself (Photo #18) is small, but quite pleasant. White sand, and its boundaries delineated by piles of the ever-present boulders. GSB provides beach towels and beach chairs whose unfolding and folding procedures mystified even this engineer. (For some reason, Jenny had no trouble figuring it out.) No umbrellas provided, but trees around the periphery of the beach offered plentiful shade. I can swim, but not strongly. And I tend to get cold quickly in the water. So I went in for a short dip only. There was enough surf to throw me around a bit close to shore (Video #19), and concern for rip tides and hidden boulders dissuaded me from venturing very far out. Later, when changing back into street clothes, I dumped several shovels-full of sand out of my trunks. But mostly I passed a couple of fruitful hours lounging in a beach chair, and listening (and snoozing) to a recorded book on my headphones, and musing on the fact that it was about 12° F back home.
I had some business to take care of with regards to the rental car. I needed to register as a legal driver in addition to Jenny. So we got in the car, and I called up Google Maps on my phone, entered "Mahogany Car Rentals, Virgin Gorda" into the destination. We bumped our way along the roads until Google Maps told us we had arrived. There was nothing that looked anything like a car rental outfit, only a cluster of private homes.I tried to call Mahogany Rentals, and my call went to voicemail. I asked a woman outside one of the homes, and she said, "Oh, no. You need to go..." followed by a long series of directions involving local landmarks. Well, if you read the previous page of this blog, and in particular the paragraph on "Driving" you can guess the outcome of that foray. Fortunately, Google Maps did know where Guavaberry Spring Bay was, or we'd still be wandering around in circles to this day. In the end, Mahogany gave the appropriate paperwork to the offices of Guavaberry Bay, where I signed them.
I had brought my brand new laptop with me, because I had some ongoing administrative work to keep up with for the Folk Project. I also brought a mouse and a keyboard, because I'm very clumsy with the keyboard and touch pad supplied with the laptop. I type with my palms down, and they keep rubbing on the touch pad, moving the cursor around, and putting my input somewhere three or four paragraphs away from where I had intended. Alas, I had left one minor piece of equipment at home. The new laptop only had USB-c ports and the mouse and keyboard had USB-a plugs, and I neglected to bring the adapters with me. A couple more forays into town trying to find an electronics store proved fruitless. (No Staples in Virgin Gorda.) I did manage to borrow a suitable mouse from the Guavaberry Spring Bay office, but I suffered with the damn laptop keyboard for the whole 10 days we were there, backing up an correcting my typos every other sentence I typed. Grrr!
In the afternoon, we decided to visit Virgin Gorda's most famous attraction, The Baths. All through our stay at GSB, we could see the endless procession of pickup truck taxis carrying tour groups to this fascinating geological phenomenon, a BVI National Park since 1990, and only a 9-minute walk up the road from Palm Cottage for us. It is essentially a tumbled pile of those giant boulders that fell in such a fashion that you can clamber among and through the spaces between them traversing the 150 yards or so between the Baths Beach and Devil's Bay. Why it is called "The Baths" remains a mystery to me.
The Baths
We chose to take the left hand path down to the shore (see map) and go to Devil's Bay first, and then traverse the Baths and back up to the parking lot. The path to Devil's Bay (Photo #20) wound down through low brush to the beach. At one point (Photo #21) the brush must have been a lot lower when they put the sign up. Somehow I had not expected cactus (Photo #22) in this part of the world.
Sorry, no photos of Devil's Bay beach itself. I just forgot. The surf there was much calmer than at GSB's beach, and the beach was almost empty of other swimmers. There were no toilets, or other facilities, but I felt no qualms about changing into my swim trunks shielded from view by a convenient boulder. We swam for a while, and then headed into the Baths.
It was a short, but interesting journey. Even though the boulders were heaped high above us, they were so large that the spaces between them permitted indirect light to penetrate down to where we walked, and it wasn't at all scary. Sometimes we waded through water (Photo #25), sometimes walked on sand (Photo #26), and sometimes on the rocks themselves (Photo #27). I suppose the state of the tides had some influence on those conditions. There were places where I had to crawl to get through the openings, where Jenny could get by with just stooping. In many areas, the National Parks folks installed stairways (Photos #23 & 24), ladders, and ropes (Photos #28 & 29) to assist. They were welcome aids. The rope in Photo #29 was particularly helpful, as the footing on the rock was quite slippery, and a fall there might result in painful scrapes, if not actual broken bones. There were several branches off the direct path that led to the Baths Beach, but they quickly led to dead ends, rather than to further branches, so there was little chance of getting lost in a maze. We encountered a few other semi-spelunkers traversing the Baths in both directions, but for the most part we were alone together. In 20 minutes or so, we emerged onto Baths Beach (Photo #30.).
There were changing facilities and bathrooms there, and a foot-washing station, which was most welcome, as my water shoes had collected a lot of sand. We walked back up the path/stairs (Photo #33) to the parking lot, and headed back to Palm cottage. On our way we startled a rooster by the side of the road, and it quickly scuttled across in front of us, and into some brush on the other side. I couldn't help it. I turned to Jenny, and asked, "Why did the chicken cross the road?"
I had a hankering for a cheeseburger for dinner (comfort food) so we drove into Spanish Town (We coulda walked) and ate in a place called the Island Pot. A little pricey, as expected, but good food in in copious quantity. There was the inevitable Reggae piped into the room, but we asked them to turn it down, and they did. We ate there twice more during our stay, but sharing a single portion between us. We closed out the evening with a game of Scrabble, at which I beat her 330 to 268. That was unusual, because she's the literate one who does crossword puzzles and double-crostics all the time. But the tile gods were good to me that night. A couple of days later she got even, wiping the floor with me at Boggle 110 to 68, where we were both working with the same letters.